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successfully transferred to a transparency, use the techniques outlined in 2 to create a board A 4-inch 6-inch presensitized positive copper board is ideal When you place the transparency on the copper board, it should be oriented so that it is exactly the same as in Figure 650 Circuit board drilling and parts placement Use a 1/32-inch drill bit to drill all of the component holes on the PCB Drill the holes for the voltage regulator (U1) with a 3/64-inch drill bit Use Table 64 and Figure 651 to place the parts on the component side of the circuit board Note that female sockets are used where certain components will be plugged in This is to make it easier to mount the control potentiometers, LEDs, and switches to the top cover of the project box The PIC 16C71 microcontroller (U2) is mounted in an 18-pin IC socket The 18-pin socket is soldered to the PC board, and the PIC is inserted after it has been programmed Use a fine-toothed saw to cut the board along the guide lines Check the finished board for any missed or cold soldered connections, and verify that all the components have been included The board will be tested later when programming the PIC microcontroller

Remote control project enclosure Choose a project box that is at least 3 inches wide, 5 inches in length, and 1-1/2 inches deep Depending on the control stick that you are using, the box may need to be larger or smaller than the dimensions above I used a project box that had removable top and bottom panels to make it easier to work with Locate the 6-3/4 inch whip antenna and cut the coaxial cable to a length of 2-1/2 inches in length Strip 1/2-inch of the shielding off the end of the wire, and then strip the middle wire as well Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the top, right side of the case, and mount the antenna Solder the antenna lead wire to the small area on the back (the area without any solder mask) of the transmitter module Bend the connector pins of the transmitter module 90 degrees downward This is the same procedure that was performed on the receiver module Place the remote control circuit board in the case, and then plug the transmitter module into the female connector (JP3) Move the circuit to the top of the case, 1/2-inch from the top Use hot glue to secure the board in place Figure 652 shows the finished transmitter circuit board, with the antenna attached to the case and the transmitter module

Mount the control stick, power switch, two LEDs, and push-button switch to the top cover of the project box in similar positions, as shown in Figure 653 You will have to drill a 3/4-inch hole for the control stick Depending on the project box that you are using, you may have to find the best positions for each of the components When the parts are mounted in the cover, use Figure 654 to wire the parts to the board I used wires with a length of 3-1/2 inches to connect each component to the appropriate connector Figure 655 shows the components wired to the connectors Once the parts are wired to the connectors, attach a 9-volt battery, but move the cover to the side to leave access to the 18-pin socket, so that the PIC 16C71 can easily be inserted and removed during the programming, debugging, and experimentation stages We are now ready to start programming the robot and transmitter

North Dakota North Dakota State University (BLA) Department of Architecture and Landscape Architecture PO Box 5285 SU Station Fargo, ND 58105 http://alandsuedu/